Working on a lower unit

[Torque]

Friend bought a wellcraft with a 1995 150 Mercury on it. We replaced the water pump. Now we need to get the prop shaft straighten.

I know we need a spanner wrench to get the nut off. Is this something we should try ourselves? The engine is in really good shape. Minimal corrosion. I'm pretty good mechanically.

Any ideas on where we can pick up a wrench tomorrow (Clear lake)? We have a local machine shop who will straigthen it for $50.

Surprising the seals are in great shape. No leaks.

I heard you may have to heat it up once you have a wrench. Any other tricks anyone is aware of?

Thanks ahead of time.

[007]

Mike, I'm somewhat mechanically inclined and there's nothing that I haven't been able to do to my motor that wasn't extremely internal. Sounds to me like you've already answered your own question. The price that the machine shop quoted sounds pretty reasonable to me. You've already been in there, just pay attention to what you're doing and I think that you'll be fine....as far as the wrench goes, I'd call one of your local marine shops and tell them that you're bringing the boat up there and want to rent a wrench. Pull the boat in there and give them a $20 and your DL and see what they say.

[wilson84]

Try Palmer Power, they are located at Long Dr and 610. That is where I get all of my parts, but they have a shop as well.

[Torque]

Thanks Mike

We got the shaft out. Hopefully it will all go back together. Quite the learning experience. We purposely broke the retainer nut to pull out the shaft. Much easier to by a new nut rather than trying to break lose a nut that was torqued at 200 ft/lbs.

[corndog]

Friend bought a wellcraft with a 1995 150 Mercury on it. We replaced the water pump. Now we need to get the prop shaft straighten.

I know we need a spanner wrench to get the nut off. Is this something we should try ourselves? The engine is in really good shape. Minimal corrosion. I'm pretty good mechanically.

Any ideas on where we can pick up a wrench tomorrow (Clear lake)? We have a local machine shop who will straigthen it for $50.

Surprising the seals are in great shape. No leaks.

I heard you may have to heat it up once you have a wrench. Any other tricks anyone is aware of?

Thanks ahead of time.

When you heat it up and wait for it to cool the disimliar metals cool at a diferent rate. Many times the nut will spin off by hand. for engine parts,manuals and tools try marineparts.com buy all my stuff their and great tech suport over the phone. We need them to sponsor the site!!

[Torque]

Need help.
We put everything together and forward doesn't work. When we took it out it was in forward.

Now, i'm trying to understand how the clutch dog works. I don't think it's engaging the forward gear. The clutch dog is in good shape with no rust and it slides through reverse neutral and forward (by hand).

How does the clutch dog go into forward when shifting into forward. I can see where the shifter has a lobe on it and when you go into forward the lobe points away which means it's not pushing the shifter rod in the shaft. When you go to reverse the lobe pushes in the shifter rod which moves the clutch dog to engage reverse gear.

It seems like the shifter should be able to grab the shifter rod and pull it out which would put into forward. However, I don't see how that can happen.

Any thoughts? This is a 1995 Mercury Magnum III Black Max 150

[Torque]

For your reading pleasure, plus, should anyone do a search on the internet, they'll know what I didn't.

Turns out, we broke the shifter rod that goes inside the prop shaft. This rod connects to the shifter rod that connects to the shifter in the upper unit.

I now know that you are to disconnect the shifter rod mechanism before pulling the prop shaft. Oh well........

Now we are trying to replace the trim motor. What a pain. Two of the bolts (the only two) broke.