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Is 20 lb monofilament too heavy?

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  • #31
    When fishing in the bays and using topwaters, can you reel the lure up near the rod tip or do you need to stop at the shock leader knot so it doesnt interfere with the rod guides?

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    • #32
      I would stop at the shock leader to keep from getting it stuck on a eyelet.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by agdodge4x4 View Post
        When fishing in the bays and using topwaters, can you reel the lure up near the rod tip or do you need to stop at the shock leader knot so it doesnt interfere with the rod guides?
        i use a 3-4 foot leader so when it gets frayed i retie lure not a new leader. just reel knot up in eyes

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        • #34
          Originally posted by agdodge4x4 View Post
          How long should the shock leader be? I'm bay fishing. Does it pass through the rod guides ok? I put on 15 lb line on my 5500c3.
          About 2 feet more or less depending on the length of the rod & what you're casting. I was taught to put a bead before the knot so it would stop before it gets reeled in. I wouldn't use one if I was hunting trophy trout, but it works for me most of the time.
          "Curmudgeon only pawn in game of life."


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          • #35
            i know the OP is about mono but i just want to throw my .02 on braid.
            i am a braid fan myself ... i usually dont use a shock leader unless the water is really clear. i like the 40lb strength 10lb diameter ... there are a lot of braids out there ... i happen to like power pro but have heard good reviews on suffix & fins braid. i mainly fish for redfish in the marsh with lots of oysters so thats why i like braid. also IMO if you go too thin diameter it will wind wrap easier.

            heres my reasons i like braid....
            when i used mono i would use 15lb big game & i would respool after 3-4 trips which is once a month on 3 reels ... it gets expensive. the reason a changed line so much is because a backlash will put week spots in your line & you will start breaking off. i can fill a reel up with braid & keep the line on for years... the cost is so much cheaper

            braid is more sensitive & abrasion resistant & IMO i dont backlash near as often as i did with mono & it seems like the backlashs are easier to get out & your line isnt damaged.

            the main trick with braid is it has to be spooled on tight. if its not tight it diggs in the spool & thats when you have problems. also it dont have much stretch so you do have to watch the tension on your drag so you dont pull a hook.
            www.lonestarkayakseries.com

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            • #36
              I throw any brand of 20# (6# diameter) braid with a 6', 20# Seaguar red label fluorocarbon leader. It's a lot more economical than leader material. I tie a double Albright, which goes through the smallest guides just fine.
              "GET OFF MY REEF!"

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              • #37
                I go with the pink Fins 20# braid and a 20# leader from Suffix. The Fins doesn't catch as much from what I've found. I use a uni to uni knot and have never had it break on me. I always use a little bandage tape as backing.

                I was a big mono guy until I noticed you can cast a mile with a 20# braid as it's so light. Not to mention you can feel every little bite. Backlashes are simple to get out as well. The drawback is that it snags on everything so I always keep the line tight when storing. I've also begun using those Shimano butterfly lure wraps as they keep the hooks out of everything. $20 for a set of 5.

                I also set my drag really light so I don't yank the jaws out of a trout. Then just tighten it up a bit when hooked.

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